KESKIVIIKKO // WEDNESDAY
Tiistaina tehdyn elefanttisafarin jalkeen elama muuttui varsin hektiseksi. Matkatoimiston pomo tykastyi C:iin niin kovin, etta yhtakkia meilla olikin kalenteri buukattu tayteen erilaisia reissuja. Keskiviikkona lahdettiin aamuvarhain kohti Malesian hallinnollista keskusta, Putrajayaa. Ajatus siita, etta pitaisi herata ennen auringonnousua ihan vaan hallinnollisia rakennuksia katselemaan ei herattanyt suurta suosiota, mutta niin sita vaan reippaasti noustiin ylos ja hypattiin pakuun. Ja onneksi hypattiin; paikka nimittain oli jotain aivan uskomatonta. Tavalliset hallintorakennukset kalpenevat Malesian vastaavien rinnalla, taalla maan hallinto kun on rakentanut valtaelimille oman taydellisen kaupunkinsa. Rakennukset olivat hammastyttavia, jotkut maamerkit muistuttivat erehdyttavan paljon kaltaisiaan muissa maissa: ja oppaamme kertoikin Malesian hallituksen haikailematta kopioineen muun muassa Taj Mahalin kupolin, Lontoon kuuluisan London Bridgen, seka Sydney Harbourin ja Golden Gaten sillat. Kaupunki oli todella siisti, eika kaduilla juuri nakynyt ihmisia. Hallinto koostui paaosin islaminuskon kannattajista, ja hallituksen moskeijassa vieraillessamme, kaapuun verhoutuneena mietin millainen tulevaisuus Malesialla on, jos sen hallinnollinen paakaupunki on tallainen, todella epatodellinen paikka. Malesiassa politiikka hyppii muutenkin silmille, kun vaalit ovat taas lahestymassa. Ollaan retkillamme opittu jo kahden suurimman puolueen, demokraattien ja islamislaisoikeiston liput ja puolueen historia, kiitos loistavan oppaamme.
Keskiviikon ohjelma ei paattynyt Putrajayaan (jonka vieresta muuten loytyy Malesian oma teknologiakeskus tai Silicon Valley, nimeltaan Cyberjaya), vaan jatkettiin saman tien kohti illan tulikarpas-safaria. Ensin kaarrettiin suosittuun puistoalueeseen, jolla asui varsin ystavallinen apinalauma. Ruokittiin ahneita apionoita jonkin aikaa ja jatkettiin matkaa kohti jokea ja tulikarpasia. Koska saatiin erityiskohtelua firman pomolta, myos oppaamme piti huolen, etta saimme nahda ja kokea kaiken mita vain halusimme. Kun mainitsin haluavani kokeilla paikallisia ruokia, perui oppaamme ravintolavarauksemme, ja kaarsi paikallisen pikkukylan ravintolaan. Kokeilimme makeaa, mustaa teeta maidolla jota paikalliset juovat koko ajan, vuorokaudenajasta huolimatta. Soimme useammanlaisia paikallisia ruokia, joiden malajinkielisia nimia en muista, mutta herkuksi osoittautui leipa, jota kastettiin eri currykastikkeisiin. Kun vihdoin paastiin satamaan, josta venekyytimme tulikarpasten luo lahti, olin onnellinen tasta ruokalistan vaihdoksesta: ravintola oli kovan luokan seafood-paikka, taynna akvaarioita, joiden sisalla ui, kellui ja ryomi jos minkalaisia vedenelavia.
Veneajelu kesti noin puoli tuntia, mina, C ja meluisa kiinalaisryhma pimealla joella, vielakin hiostavan lampimana iltana. Katselin taivaalla kirkkaasti loistavia tahtia, ja mietin kuinka kaikki meidan yhteiset tutut katsovat tuota samaa taivasta - ja olin onnellinen, etta olen paassyt lahtemaan tallaiseen seikkailuun. Tulikarpaset loytyivat melko helposti, tuli aivan joulu mieleen kun ne valaisivat joen pengerta reunustavat puut ja pensaat. Ajeltiin veneella takaisin satamaan ja hypattiin jalleen pakuun. Nukahdettiin kotimatkalla, ja kun herattiin juuri ennen Kuala Lumpuria ilmoitti oppaamme, etta nyt lahdetaan etsimaan meille Laksaa, herkullista kookospohjaista currya. Mahat taynna ja vasyneina palattiin hostellille puolenyon aikaan.
- - -
After the elephant tour we did on Tuesday life got a bit hectic. The tour company owner grew to like C so much, that all of a sudden we had our calendar full with different tours and places to go. Early Wednesday morning we headed to the governmental centre of Malaysia, Putrajaya. The thought that I should wake up before sunrise just to see some government buildings didn't sound too intriguing, but somehow I found myself in the van anyway. And it actually turned out to be a very good call: that place was just unbelievable. "Normal" government buildings are nothing compared to the Malaysian
- - -
After the elephant tour we did on Tuesday life got a bit hectic. The tour company owner grew to like C so much, that all of a sudden we had our calendar full with different tours and places to go. Early Wednesday morning we headed to the governmental centre of Malaysia, Putrajaya. The thought that I should wake up before sunrise just to see some government buildings didn't sound too intriguing, but somehow I found myself in the van anyway. And it actually turned out to be a very good call: that place was just unbelievable. "Normal" government buildings are nothing compared to the Malaysian
ones. Instead of having the buildings in Kuala Lumpur, they have built their own dream city outside the capital. Everything is brand new, clean and polished. There's not too many people to be seen on the streets, since only the government employees live there (and get housing + a nice car with the job). It's also strictly islamic area, which was interesting to hear. According to our guide the government of Malaysia has changed throughout the past years to less liberal and more islamic direction. It's quite interesting to see what kind of changes will follow in future years, if this is the direction the country is going. Some of the fancy buildings of Putrajaya also looked kinda familiar, and no wonder: they have copied some famous landmarks around the world, e.g. the Taj Mahal dome, Golden Gate bridge, London Bridge and Sydney Harbour bridge. "Yes, Malaysian government copyright", our guide ironically commented.
Wednesday's programme didn't end to Putrajaya (right next to it you can also find the Silicon Valley of Malaysia, Cyberjaya) since we continued to our next tour straight away. We had a firefly tour booked for the night and on our way there we stopped to feed some greedy yet friendly silver monkeys. Since we were treated as special guests our amazing Indian guide Balan really did his best to get us all we wanted. When I mentioned that I'd like to try some local food, he immediately canceled our seafood restaurant booking that normally comes with the tour, and took us to a local restaurant to introduce us some specialities like stretch tea and different local curries. When we finally reached the dock where our boat to the fireflies departed, I was happy about the change of menu: the restaurant where we were supposed to have dinner was a hardcore seafood place, with all sorts of creepy crawlies in massive fishtanks. Since neither of us really likes seafood we set off rather relieved.
The boat ride lasted about half an hour. It was me, C and a noisy group of Chinese people in the dark night. I was looking at the stars twinkling real bright in the sky and thought about all the people we know, in different parts of the world, maybe looking at that exact same sky - and felt happy to be on this amazing adventure. We found the fireflies pretty soon, it almost felt like Christmas watching the bushes and trees all lightened up. It was all new to me, we don't have such things in the cold north. After the boat trip we drove back to KL. We both fell asleep and woke up to our guide happily announcing that now we're off to find some Curry Laksa (another food I had mentioned earlier) for us. Stomachs full with yummy food and tired we returned to our hostel around midnight.
Wednesday's programme didn't end to Putrajaya (right next to it you can also find the Silicon Valley of Malaysia, Cyberjaya) since we continued to our next tour straight away. We had a firefly tour booked for the night and on our way there we stopped to feed some greedy yet friendly silver monkeys. Since we were treated as special guests our amazing Indian guide Balan really did his best to get us all we wanted. When I mentioned that I'd like to try some local food, he immediately canceled our seafood restaurant booking that normally comes with the tour, and took us to a local restaurant to introduce us some specialities like stretch tea and different local curries. When we finally reached the dock where our boat to the fireflies departed, I was happy about the change of menu: the restaurant where we were supposed to have dinner was a hardcore seafood place, with all sorts of creepy crawlies in massive fishtanks. Since neither of us really likes seafood we set off rather relieved.
The boat ride lasted about half an hour. It was me, C and a noisy group of Chinese people in the dark night. I was looking at the stars twinkling real bright in the sky and thought about all the people we know, in different parts of the world, maybe looking at that exact same sky - and felt happy to be on this amazing adventure. We found the fireflies pretty soon, it almost felt like Christmas watching the bushes and trees all lightened up. It was all new to me, we don't have such things in the cold north. After the boat trip we drove back to KL. We both fell asleep and woke up to our guide happily announcing that now we're off to find some Curry Laksa (another food I had mentioned earlier) for us. Stomachs full with yummy food and tired we returned to our hostel around midnight.
TORSTAI // THURSDAY
Torstaina oli taas aikainen heratys, talla kertaa retkelle josta oltiin jo valmiiksi innoissamme. Cameron Highlands on pohjoisemmassa ja vuoristoisemmassa osassa Malesiaa, ja alueen laaksoissa viljellaan kaikkea mahdollista. Paanahtavyys on BOH (Best of Highlands, tietenkin) teeplantaasi, hehtaaritolkulla kukkulaa ja laaksoa taynna ihanan tuoksuisia teeviljelmia. Plantaasin perusti aikanaan brittilainen miekkonen, tuo kansa kun on tunnettu fanaattisuudestaan teehen. Vierailtiin sisalla tee-tehtaassa ja nahtiin kaikki teenvalmistuksen eri vaiheet. Kun kierros oli ohi, naispuolinen, intialaistaustainen oppaamme kysyi minulta mista olen kotoisin, kuinka vanha olen ja olenko naimisissa. Hammentyneena vastasin kysymyksiin, nainen vastasi tahan hymyillen ja nyokaten. C:n mukaan oppaalla oli varmasti naimaikainen veli, jolle etsittiin rikasta valkoista vaimoa. Lisaksi kavuttiin yhden kukkulan huipulle, ihailtiin maisemia ja nautittiin vilpoisesta tuulesta, Kuala Lumpurin hiostavan helteen jalkeen. Talla reissulla kaytiin myos mehilais- ja mansikkafarmilla, kaktusmyymalassa ja pikkukaupungin markkinoilla. Matkan varrella oli myos Malesian alkuperaisasukkaiden kylapahanen, jossa pysahdyttiin ja tavattiin paikalliset. Eras heimon miehista opetti meita ampumaan bambusta valmistetulla puhallusaseella, osuin heti ensi yrityksella maalitauluna roikkuvaan nallekarhuun. Mies naytti meille viidakosta pelastamaansa viikon ikaista apinanpoikasta, jonka emo oli kuollut ja jota mies nyt ruokki ja hoiti. Naiden ihmisten koteihin mennessa olo oli epamukava ja tunkeileva, yritettiin jaada ulos, mutta meidat tultiin kadesta pitaen hakemaan. Onneksi oppaamme kuitenkin kertoi heimolle maksettavan tasta hyvasta.
- - -
On Thursday we had another early wake, this time to go on a trip we were already excited about. Cameron Highlands is a place north from KL with hills and cooler climate, allowing the locals to plant just about anything there. The main attraction of Cameron Highlands is also known by name BOH (Best of Highlands, of course), extensive tea plantations. The smell of fresh tea was stunning when we hopped out of the van! The plantations and company was founded by an Englishman some good years ago, the British are sure well known for their fanaticism to tea. We visited the tea factory and saw all the stages of quality tea producing. After the tour was over, the Indian female BOH guide of ours asked me where I'm from, how old am I and whether I'm married or not. A little confused I answered the questions, she nodded and smiled. According to C the woman without a doubt has a brother in search for a nice little wife, if rich, white or European, even better.
The Cameron Highlands trip took us also to a strawberry farm, bee farm, cactus shop and the afternoon market of a local hill village. Along the way we stopped in a Orang Asli village too, where some of the aboriginals of Malaysia live. One of the tribe men taught us to use the bamboo blowpipe they use for hunting - I hit the goal, a rugged teddybear, on my first try. The man also showed us a tiny monkey baby he rescued from the jungle after its mother had died. That little thing was only one week old, and so adorable we just wished to take it with us. Visiting the homes of these people felt quite uncomfortable and intruding, we even tried to stay outside but our guide insisted us to come and see. Fortunately they at least pay the tribe some money for this.
- - -
On Thursday we had another early wake, this time to go on a trip we were already excited about. Cameron Highlands is a place north from KL with hills and cooler climate, allowing the locals to plant just about anything there. The main attraction of Cameron Highlands is also known by name BOH (Best of Highlands, of course), extensive tea plantations. The smell of fresh tea was stunning when we hopped out of the van! The plantations and company was founded by an Englishman some good years ago, the British are sure well known for their fanaticism to tea. We visited the tea factory and saw all the stages of quality tea producing. After the tour was over, the Indian female BOH guide of ours asked me where I'm from, how old am I and whether I'm married or not. A little confused I answered the questions, she nodded and smiled. According to C the woman without a doubt has a brother in search for a nice little wife, if rich, white or European, even better.
The Cameron Highlands trip took us also to a strawberry farm, bee farm, cactus shop and the afternoon market of a local hill village. Along the way we stopped in a Orang Asli village too, where some of the aboriginals of Malaysia live. One of the tribe men taught us to use the bamboo blowpipe they use for hunting - I hit the goal, a rugged teddybear, on my first try. The man also showed us a tiny monkey baby he rescued from the jungle after its mother had died. That little thing was only one week old, and so adorable we just wished to take it with us. Visiting the homes of these people felt quite uncomfortable and intruding, we even tried to stay outside but our guide insisted us to come and see. Fortunately they at least pay the tribe some money for this.
PERJANTAI // FRIDAY
Kun torstaista oltiin selvitty ja iltamyohalla paastiin takaisin
hostellille, piti alkaa pakkaamaan laukkuja seuraavaa safaria varten.
Kevytta ja hyttysenkestavaa, patikointivermeet ja uimapuvut. Viikon
kruunasi kolmen paivan ja kahden yon reissu Taman Negaran viidakkoon,
Malesian kansallispuistoon. Kolme tuntia bussissa, jonka hurjassa
vuoristorata-kyydissa pelkasin menettavani henkeni; ja kolme tuntia
viidakkojoella kalastusveneessa, jonka kyyti oli ihanan tasaista ja
maisemat huikeita. Perilla meita kohdeltiin kuin parempaakin vakea,
firman pomo oli informoinut henkilokuntaansa hanen erityisvieraansa (C)
saapumisesta. Saatiin kyyti jeepin perassa hotellille, levattiin hetki
ja lahdettiin joen rantaan illallistamaan. Viidakkokaupungiksi Taman
Negaran alueella oli aika paljon majotustilaa ja kelluvia ravintoloita,
mutta meininki oli viidakon mukainen.
Ensimmaisena iltana kaytiin
oisella viidakkokavelylla oppaan ja taskulamppujen kera. Rapsuttelin
kesyyntynytta, jattimaista tapiiria toimiston pihassa, ja itse kavelylla
nahtiin monenmoisia hyonteisia, kaarme, tarantella, skorpioni ja
sambapeuroja. Lauantai oli viela kiireisempi: aamulla mentiin ensin
Canopy Walkwaylle, koysiratasillalle viidakon siimekseen. Onnekseni osa
radasta oli suljettu korjaustoiden vuoksi, minulle 35metrin korkeus
heiluvalla koysiradalla oli tarpeeksi jo sekin. Radan jalkeen patikoimme
ryhman kanssa sen metsaalueen korkeimmille huipuille. Nakoalapaikat
itsessaan eivat olleet kovin korkealla ja saakin oli vahan sumuinen,
joten maisemat eivat olleet niin upeat kuin kirkkaalla taivaalla. Mutta
itse patikointi oli palkitsevaa, joskin todella raskasta. Koko matka oli
jyrkkaa ja juurakkoista nousua, joistain kohdista selvisi vain
liaaneista kiinni pitamalla. Huipulle asti patikoi myos kaksi pienta
intilalaista lasta, ihmeteltiin koko ryhman voimin heidan sisukkuuttaan.
Kun viidakosta oltiin palattu, oli seuraavaksi vuorossa kosteampaa
menoa, eraanlaista koskenlaskua pitkalla puisella kalastusveneella.
Tassa aktiviteetissa kastuminen oli varmaa, kun vene keikkui ja heilui
koskien aalloissa. Jokivesi oli kuitenkin niin lamminta, etta roiskeet
olivat tervetulleita ja jokiajelu todella hauska. Vierailtiin viidakon
oman heimon leirissa, joka oli samaa alkuperaa Cameron Highlandsin
alkuperaiskansan kanssa, vaikka kieli ja metsastysvalineet olivatkin
hieman erilaiset.
Illaksi meille suositeltiin viela yhta erityisen
jannittavaa aktiviteettia, yollista viidakkosafaria nelivetoisen
maasturin kyydissa. Tartuttiin tarjoukseen, ja puoli yhdeksalta illalla
hypattiin auton lavalle. Koska safarille oli halukkaita tulijoita
riittamiin, eivat kaikki mahtuneet lavalle. Katolla istui toinen
oppaista, jonka tehtava oli valaista lampulla puita ja maastoa, elaimia
etsien. Mina, C ja eras hollantilaismies hypattiin pyydettaessa mekin
sinne auton katolle, siella oli patjat ja kaikki optimaalista
viidakkosafaria varten. Ja mita kaikkea me nahtiin? Kun aiemmin
tekemamme viidakkokavely oli lahinna hyonteisten nakemista, oli tama
safari pikemminkin elainten etsimista. En ollut uskoa silmiani, kun pian
asutusalueen ulkopuolelle paastyamme vieressani istuva opas osoitti
valon eraan harjanteen paalle, ja pikaisesti koputti auton kattoa
ilmoittaakseen kuskille, etta pysahtyy. Valokeilassa nakyi kiiluva
silmapari ja iso musta paa. Kohta elain nousi, ja tajusimme
tuijottavamme mustaa pantteria. Kuski nousi auton ratista konepellille
ihmettelemaan nakya, molemmat oppaatkin kertoivat tapaavansa pantterin
ensimmaista kertaa - niin visusti puiston kissaelaimet yleensa
pysyttelevat piilossa. Kun kissa aikansa meita ihmeteltyaan vetaytyi pensaiden suojiin, lahdettiin hakeltyneina jatkamaan matkaa. Ajeltiin pitkin metsia ja palmuplantaaseja, nahtiin vesipuhveleita, lehmia, kaarme, lepakoita, kotkia, jonkin pienemman trooppisen kissaelaimen poikanen ja epailematta taustalla emokin, slow lorris eli hidas lori seka aivan safarin lopuksi viela toinen vilaus pantterista. Kuski kaarsi taytta vauhtia samaan paikkaan missa naimme pantterin ensimmaisen kerran, ja sielta sen silmat kiiluivat jalleen. Uskomatonta. Nukkumaan mentiin hieman hamillaan kaikesta nakemastamme ja kokemastamme.
- - -
After we survived the tour on Thursday and got back to our hostel, late at night, we had to start packing for the next trip. Something light and mosquito proof, hiking gear and swimsuits. Our busy week culminated to 3 day 2 night trip to the jungle of Taman Negara, the national park of Malaysia. Three hours in a bus, the ride was like in a horrible roller coaster and I was honestly afraid to lose my life. Quick stop, lunch, another 3hrs this time on a boat, smoothly cruising along the jungle river - this part was very enjoyable. For a jungle village Taman Negara was rather well established, about a dozen places offering accommodation and plenty of tiny restaurants.
The first night we took a night jungle walk to the depths of Taman Negara, with a guide & flashlights. We got to scratch tamed tapirs who had wandered from the jungle to get some food and affection from people. In the dark jungle we saw heaps of different insects, mostly walking sticks and crickets, a snake, tarantula, scorpion and samba deers. Saturday was even busier. In the morning we headed to Canopy Walkway, a treetop ropebridge. Fortunately some higher parts of the aerial ropeway were under maintenance, to me the height of 35 meters on a swinging ropebridge was enough. After this we hiked to the hilltop of this particular area. The lookout spots weren't actually that high, some hundred meters, but the hike itself was tough. Jungle hiking is some serious business, steep hike uphill with tree roots everywhere, occasionally having to hold on to the lianas to get forward. There were two young Indian kids who hiked all the way to the top them too, I admired that persistence. When we got back from the jungle we were advised to prepare to get wet. We went off shooting the rapids with a long wooden fishing boat: in this activity getting wet was inevitable. The river water was so warm that the splashes were gladly welcomed, this ride was a lot of fun. We again visited a Orang Asli village, this time just located in the Taman Negara area.
For our last evening in the jungle our guide recommended something special for us, a nighttime 4WD jungle safari. When the night jungle walk we did before was mostly focused on spotting insects, this safari was for the bigger game. Tour was fully booked, and since we couldn't all fit to the back of the car, me, C and a Dutch guy hopped to the roof. And what did we see? I couldn't believe my eyes when shortly after we left the residential district the guy sitting next to me, holding the searchlight, spotted something and knocked the roof of the car for the driver to stop. When he found the spot with the searchlight again the whole van gasped. There was a black panther looking back at us from the hilltop right next to the road. Even the driver climbed out amazed, both of the guides told that it was a first time for them too to see this wild animal. When the giant black cat had enough of us it retrieved to the bushes and we continued the safari. We drove through woods and palm plantations, saw cows, water buffalos, a snake, bats, eagles, some smaller wild cats, a slow lorris (!) and just before heading back home, another glimpse of the black panther. What an amazing experience! We fell asleep astonished by all we had seen and experienced.
- - -
After we survived the tour on Thursday and got back to our hostel, late at night, we had to start packing for the next trip. Something light and mosquito proof, hiking gear and swimsuits. Our busy week culminated to 3 day 2 night trip to the jungle of Taman Negara, the national park of Malaysia. Three hours in a bus, the ride was like in a horrible roller coaster and I was honestly afraid to lose my life. Quick stop, lunch, another 3hrs this time on a boat, smoothly cruising along the jungle river - this part was very enjoyable. For a jungle village Taman Negara was rather well established, about a dozen places offering accommodation and plenty of tiny restaurants.
The first night we took a night jungle walk to the depths of Taman Negara, with a guide & flashlights. We got to scratch tamed tapirs who had wandered from the jungle to get some food and affection from people. In the dark jungle we saw heaps of different insects, mostly walking sticks and crickets, a snake, tarantula, scorpion and samba deers. Saturday was even busier. In the morning we headed to Canopy Walkway, a treetop ropebridge. Fortunately some higher parts of the aerial ropeway were under maintenance, to me the height of 35 meters on a swinging ropebridge was enough. After this we hiked to the hilltop of this particular area. The lookout spots weren't actually that high, some hundred meters, but the hike itself was tough. Jungle hiking is some serious business, steep hike uphill with tree roots everywhere, occasionally having to hold on to the lianas to get forward. There were two young Indian kids who hiked all the way to the top them too, I admired that persistence. When we got back from the jungle we were advised to prepare to get wet. We went off shooting the rapids with a long wooden fishing boat: in this activity getting wet was inevitable. The river water was so warm that the splashes were gladly welcomed, this ride was a lot of fun. We again visited a Orang Asli village, this time just located in the Taman Negara area.
For our last evening in the jungle our guide recommended something special for us, a nighttime 4WD jungle safari. When the night jungle walk we did before was mostly focused on spotting insects, this safari was for the bigger game. Tour was fully booked, and since we couldn't all fit to the back of the car, me, C and a Dutch guy hopped to the roof. And what did we see? I couldn't believe my eyes when shortly after we left the residential district the guy sitting next to me, holding the searchlight, spotted something and knocked the roof of the car for the driver to stop. When he found the spot with the searchlight again the whole van gasped. There was a black panther looking back at us from the hilltop right next to the road. Even the driver climbed out amazed, both of the guides told that it was a first time for them too to see this wild animal. When the giant black cat had enough of us it retrieved to the bushes and we continued the safari. We drove through woods and palm plantations, saw cows, water buffalos, a snake, bats, eagles, some smaller wild cats, a slow lorris (!) and just before heading back home, another glimpse of the black panther. What an amazing experience! We fell asleep astonished by all we had seen and experienced.
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